Saturday, August 11, 2012

China Pt. 1: The Spirit of Peking


       The plane en route from San Francisco to Beijing was crowded. After 13 wrenching hours of flight, a fellow passenger stood up, looked in my direction, and shouted, “Welcome to China!” A flight attendant announced over the loudspeaker that visibility in Beijing was “Under one mile today,” with a hint of irony in her voice. People poured out of the airliner as it was being gutted to travel across the Pacific once more.
      Our van from the airport careened down a crazy, spinning Hutong alleyway. It was at this moment that I determined that China must be called the Land of the Dragon because of it's twisting roadways. Road Laws seem to be more Road Guidelines in China. The “right of way” is decided by whoever has the guts to pull into the intersection. Electric mopeds catapult across sidewalks, down streets, and through walkways in herds, like startled antelope with no where to run. Pedestrian traffic is left to take it's life into it's own hands. If you can run fast enough, you can cross the street.
      Wangfujing is Beijing's central shopping street. Grime covered buildings tower over streets caked with dusty pollution. A soft haze lends an ethereal element to the scene. While commercial centers, filled with designer Western clothiers dominate, traditional family businesses still carry on as they have for countless years. Wangfujing Cathedral stands as a black sheep; something which neither belonged in Ancient China nor it's confused identity crisis in which the nation currently rests. An unfinished shopping mall advertises Dairy Queen ice cream and Forever 21 Clothing. The notorious Beijing Night Market lies only a few blocks away.
      The Temple of Heaven, one of the landmark sights of China, shows a genius for acoustics. The little details make this site truly amazing- it's design is more simplistic than that of the Summer Palace or the Forbidden City; it's wonders are subtle. On top of the “Circular Mound Alter” (Really? Of all the names?) there is stone which lies in it's center. When standing atop this stone, you can hear your voice come from all directions. In the Hall of Echoes lie three pavement bricks, when standing on the first brick you hear your voice once, on the second brick twice, etc. The gold gilding remains as a shimmering reminder of China's wealth and power.
      Tienanmen Square. One of Communism's last outposts in the 21st Century world. Famous for it's 1989 Massacre and it's gargantuan portrait of the country's late leader, Chairman Mao Zedong, Tienanmen Square is a testimony to a national pride unheard of in the Western World. The deceased body of Mao is on display in a glass casket, and the Monument to the People's Heroes is still the dead center of Beijing. What many Westerners mistake for a tribute to the Red State is really a place as conflicted as the rest of the nation which it represents. The Tienanmen Square Protests of '89 were actually preformed by orthodox communists, who set themselves against the economic reforms of Deng Xiaoping and his successors. The Square is eerie in it's very presence. Red Guards and police vans still patrol the Square regularly, as if to make sure that everyone remembered where exactly they are. As an American who is not altogether the most patriotic person, Tienanmen Square served as a truly fantastic reminder that although our nation is far from perfect, we really do have something to be grateful for.
      Rising into the smog like a majestic bird, the Hall of Supreme Harmony is one of the most awe-inspiring sights that Man has ever created. The Forbidden City, with it's elaborate gardens, soaring rooms, and incredibly attention to detail cannot be described with the inadequate English language. “Beauty” simply does not cover half of the awe of the Imperial Palace.
A monk outside the Summer Palace
      The only thing I found truly striking in the Summer Palace was a large photograph, probably from the mid-sixties, printed onto a display board. The English caption simply read, “Pu-Yi and Mao Zedong.” The photograph featured two men shaking hands. If I hadn't read up on the history of China's last emperor, the picture wouldn't have appeared any different than any other photo of Mao. There are lots of those. Pu-Yi was China's last emperor. His story is one of the most understated tragedies of modern times, and I'd highly encourage you to read a more detailed account. Something about ending up as the gardener in the palace you grew up in puts a perspective on how much control we have truly have over our own lives.
      Snaking along the hills outside of Beijing's suburban areas is China's most iconic sight: The Great Wall. It truly is amazing, and I wish I could've spent more time climbing it. “He who has not mounted the Great Wall is not a true man.” -Mao Zedong
The Hutong. The one with the yellow front was our hostel.
      Beijing's magic lies in it's subtleties. Sure, there are the awe-inspiring sights of Ancient China and modern innovation, but the true spirit of Peking is embodied somewhere deep in an unpaved Hutong alleyway, where roast sticks of tofu can be found for 1 Yuan, and people are sitting outside, enjoying the evening over a cup of tea and a game of mahjong. One of my favorite experiences in China occurred in the Hutong Hostel we were staying in. To my knowledge we were the only guests staying in the courtyard home, which had been converted into a hotel/hostel. The staff was comprised of students who all lived together in the home and managed the guest rooms. One evening, my mother and I were invited to join them for a Dragon Boat Festival Party, as it was Dragon Boat weekend, one of China's larger holidays. We were told to return in an hour, so we went for a walk around the hutong where the hotel was located and the surrounding alleys. Upon returning, we found that the lobby had been decorated and that they had baked us special lotus-wrapped dumplings that are only served during Dragon Boat. They wanted us to play a game with them, and it turned out that the game they had in mind was something similar to charades. We played charades for nearly 2 hours. Our Chinese is terrible, and their English was comparable, but we still had the time of our lives. I have the feeling that those 2 hours that I spent in a hostel in a little alleyway somewhere in the urban sprawl of Beijing playing charades will stick with me for quite a while. 
My mother and I with the staff of our hotel

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